Can you introduce yourself and tell us about your journey as a jewelry designer ? What led you to choose this profession ?
Yes, of course. My name is Isaac, I am 43 years old, and I live in Santiago, Chile. Since childhood, I have been drawn to art, but over time, life took me in other directions. About 15 years ago, I began studying jewelry at the Plat Art Fine Jewelry School, where I trained for five years. Even today, I continue to refine my skills, explore new techniques, and study jewelry-making processes. I also had the opportunity to train in Argentina with master goldsmith Emilio Patarca, and I am still his student. My passion for artistic disciplines that fascinated me in the past led me to this profession. Working with drawing, metal, alloys, and both precious and semi-precious stones is a true passion. Manipulating fire and shaping materials is an experience like no other for me.
What inspires you to create jewelry, and how does traditional Chilean craftsmanship influence your designs ?
For me, creating means bringing to life ideas and forms that do not yet exist or replicating existing motifs as faithfully as possible. I also love the idea that jewelry transcends time. Since antiquity, goldsmith pieces have been found in museums and private collections, showcasing the tastes and values of past civilizations. In Chile, before the arrival of the Spanish, many cultures used jewelry to denote social status, as talismans, or to convey specific messages. Today, I study these pre-Columbian influences, whether in jewelry or textiles, and they deeply inspire my work as a designer.
Can you tell us about the creative aspect of your process ? How do you find inspiration for each new collection ?
One of the most challenging aspects is determining the final shape of a piece. Sometimes I start from abstract concepts and ideas, while other times, the shape is predetermined by myself or the client.
Another approach is working with the materials I have on hand, which directly influences the final design. Once the idea is in place, I create multiple sketches to refine the drawing. Then, I calculate the cost of materials and adjust the design to fit the budget and production timeline. The more artisanal techniques one masters, the more efficient and creative the process becomes. For Fashion Week Madrid 2025, I drew inspiration from modernity, circular shapes, nature, and warm tones, incorporating a minimalist and geometric aesthetic.
How do you balance your cultural heritage with modernity in your creations ?
Chile is home to several pre-Columbian Indigenous peoples, each with their own artistic representations and worldviews. For them, jewelry had strong symbolic meaning. The schools I attended emphasized classical and artisanal learning, teaching me to work with traditional tools without relying on technology. I do not use 3D design software or 3D printers. While these technologies remain expensive, I firmly believe that excellent results can be achieved using proven handcrafted techniques. I merge ancestral processes with modern inspirations.
How do you balance your cultural heritage with modernity in your creations ?
The main obstacle is the lack of government support. In Chile, artisans are largely on their own and must actively seek recognition. Despite a serious career and extensive training, obtaining official support is challenging. The key to success is exploring all possible sales opportunities and being proactive. Unlike in Europe, where professional associations facilitate exchanges between jewelers and goldsmiths, here, we must fight for every opportunity. One solution is to expand internationally, and I am currently working on this. My invitation to the XVII edition of Fashion Week Madrid in April 2025, which will take place at the Gran Via Casino, is a great opportunity. I am also honored to present my work in your magazine.
What is your dream for the future ? Where do you see yourself in five years ?
My greatest dream is to travel to Europe and collaborate with some of the world's most renowned jewelry and goldsmith houses. I would love to work in prestigious jewelry workshops, deepen my knowledge of gemology and jewelry creation, and explore the connection between jewelry and fashion. I believe my work and artisanal approach can bring something unique to the luxury world. The future is yet to be written, but the ambition is there.
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